Archives for category: Travel

I have unfinished business in Istanbul.  All of it is to do with eating. Eating more. Eating more of exactly what I ate at the charming restaurant in the Çiçek Pasajı where Andy and I were filming a group of young Istanbul residents, call them our subjects if you like. I’d specially like to eat more of the deniz börülcesi or samphire that I was so excited to see was one of  the huge selection of hot and cold meze that they ordered.

The numerous bottles of  raki that were also ordered were the perfect accompaniment to the meze.  Not that we were tempted to join in after accepting just one glass of the anise flavoured drink, since this was after all a normal working day for us. Andy filmed the entire meal – and here are a few frame grabs from the footage.

And then there was the kaymaklı lokum from Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir.

Hacı Bekir opened in 1777 and is currently run by the fifth generation of the Hacı Bekir family from the same location. Although the shop is filled with every flavour of Turkish Delight imaginable, the kaymaklı lokum – filled with clotted cream  – was what our subjects bought. We couldn’t fault them on their choice of  meze the night before and we most certainly could not fault them on this choice.  The cool, slightly tangy, creamy filling that seeped into my mouth as I ate the kaymaklı lokum was such a surprise, and such a joy,  that it is now on my top ten best foods of all time list. 

I definitely have unfinished business in Istanbul.


Take a look at this video to see how kaymaklı lokum  is made.




The documentary I recently worked on with my friend and colleague Andy Spitz,  had me racing around the world working and eating in five cities – Warsaw, Moscow, Istanbul, Dubai and Lagos. Amazing material for  Exploring Eating I thought, but 18 hour shoot days and other concurrent work commitments at Allaboutwriting left little to no time for actually writing about or recording the food and eating experiences that came our way.

Luckily for me, many of the most amazing food experiences we had were actually part of the documentary and we have hours of food related footage.

So now that the editing is just about over and given that today is a public holiday in South Africa I thought I’d sneak away from my long to do list for a few hours and go through Andy’s beautiful footage  pulling out a few frame grabs.

I give you cities one and two, Warsaw and Moscow:

Sunday 13 April  – Warszawa Wchodnia, Warsaw

Saturday 19 April, Easter Saturday at St Nicholas Cathedral, Zaraisk, Moscow District

Saturday 19 April,  shopping in Zaraisk and eating  in Zhemovo, Moscow District

Istanbul, Dubai and Lagos to follow…